The Dish

Tale of Four Cities

by Stefanie Berry Stark

Want to have dinner on Nantucket? Or maybe you'd prefer to eat in Charleston, S.C., the Shenandoah area or a Maine seaport town. This fall, you can take your pick and dine in any one of these destinations without traveling too far. Just head to Colvin Run Tavern (8045 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, Va., 703-356-9500), Bob Kinkead's brand-new restaurant (expected to open September 25), located in the Tysons Corner area. "I've always liked decor that's not homogenized," says the legendary local chef and restaurateur. "So we did four separate decors in four separate rooms, representing places that are interesting design-wise and food-wise," he explains. Thanks to Adamstein and Demetriou, the hip husband-and-wife design duo, each room in the 150-seat restaurant looks dramatically different and should transport you (even if just for the duration of your meal) someplace else. The menu will be the same throughout the restaurant, featuring American fare that celebrates all four of the chosen regions from executive chef Jeff Gaetjen, who left Kinkead's for Colvin Run (Tracy O'Grady has stepped up to captain the kitchen downtown at Kinkead's)…

A little bit of Texas followed President Bush to D.C. and can be found at the Watergate. Chef Robert Rhodes of Jeffrey's (2650 Virginia Ave. NW, 202-298-4455) is serving upscale "contemporary Texas cuisine," using classic French techniques with Texas ingredients and a bit of southwestern flair. Yes, he uses chilis, but nothing is too hot or spicy (they want it to go with wine, not beer). Rhodes recently came north from the original Jeffrey's in Austin, where President Bush and his family liked to dine. The president stopped by in mid-summer and dined on oysters and tempura-battered softshell crabs. Earlier in the summer, first lady Laura and about 13 women enjoyed a special Jeffrey's meal—minus Dubya. Want to sample some of the president's favorite dishes? Then go for an appetizer of crispy Texas gulf oysters on yucca-root chips with habañero honey aioli and pineapple pico followed by the Texas beef tenderloin with Roquefort mashed potatoes and caramelized onions. Rhodes himself favors the oyster appetizer, explaining that in his three and a half years at Jeffrey's, he's never gotten tired of them. "The oysters are a signature dish. People keep coming back for them," he says…

But forget about Texas. Washington finally has authentic Parisian crêpes! I have been longing for this ever since falling in love with a particular crêperie in Paris. Now, delicious, perfect, light and thin yet fluffy crêpes can be found at the new Chez Antoine (2427 18th St. NW, 202-387-1000) on 18th Street in Adams Morgan. Okay, so the charm of my Parisian crêperie is missing, but who cares? This no-frills spot (take-away or eat-in on paper plates) sports a small sign that boasts, "The only place in D.C. to serve 15 different crêpes for $4.50 or less." On my way in, I pass an ecstatic customer who tells me, "This place is great, especially the chocolate sorbet." Yep, homemade sorbets and ice creams are here too, along with sandwiches, salads, cheese and more. What this place has that you may not find in Paris? Friendly service. I'm asked if I want a taste of sorbet while I wait for my crêpes and notice a sign-in book filled with happy comments. Mmm. Chocolate, for sure…

Want to teach your kid how to cook? Then sign up for a class with chef Todd Gray of Equinox (818 Connecticut Ave. NW), which just began offering cooking classes for children and their parents. Gray's own two-year-old-son's love for pots and pans inspired him to involve kids when it comes to cooking, feeling that it's important for kids to know that food doesn't just come from cans and cardboard boxes. The first "family class" is on September 15 with a menu that includes fruit shakes, banana whole-wheat pancakes and big blueberry muffins. On November 17, the family class includes cheddar corn bread wedges and hazelnut butter–and-banana sandwiches. Classes go from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and include lunch. Parents, $45; kids are free. Call 202-331-8118 to preregister…

Got a food scoop? Send it to stefanie@themagazinegroup.com.