Sweet Thing

by Stefanie Berry

Chef's Table Bruno Feldeisen Chef and Owner Senses First restaurant gig: An apprenticeship at an old pastry shop in France, his native country, at age 16. What he makes when he's not working: Soup and fruit smoothies. Where he eats out: Bistrot Lepic, Sushi-Ko, Pesce, Johnny Rockets. Biggest professional influence: Johaquium Spichal from Patina in L.A. (where Feldeisen once worked), who recently opened Nick & Stef's. Trend he'd like to see: The return of simple but good. "People want simple, tasty food like Mommy used to make, not a lot of froufrou, eclectic fusion."

It's onion season at Vidalia! Yep, spring is when the sweet, mild, much-loved onions from Georgia come into season, and the restaurant named for them is celebrating. As soon as the onions are ready (probably the beginning of April), chef/owner Jeffrey Buben and executive chef Peter Smith of Vidalia restaurant will be preparing a six-course tasting menu in honor of the onion, with each dish incorporating the veggie celebrity in some way. For starters, you'll get chilled mango and coconut soup topped with vidalia onion–ginger crème fraîche and a baked vidalia onion stuffed with wild mushrooms. Then segue into country ham, pan-roasted halibut, and plum and vidalia onion–glazed veal medallions. Finally (yes, loosen the belt), you'll be served a selection of cheeses with dried cherry and onion compote, as well as a peach and vidalia onion crème caramel. Phew! Thank goodness these onions are mild (no worries about onion-breath). The special dishes can also be ordered à la carte. The vidalia onion celebration expected to last a couple of months; call 202-659-1990 to make sure they're available.

New-ish on P Street in Dupont Circle below Café Japone is its dressed-up sister, Japone, which offers "French–Japanese fusion cuisine." Huh? This just might be that rare restaurant that's truly great for sushi lovers and sushi-phobes alike. Sushi is the focal point here, including a couple of lobster specialties, but you'll also see a number of upscale (and cooked) entrée specials such as sautéed duck breast, broiled rack of lamb with an herbed goat-cheese crust and filet mignon. For those looking for something out of the ordinary, consider these delicacies: Kobe beef (if you don't mind opening the wallet) or fugu (the legendary blowfish that only a specially licensed chef is permitted to prepare).

Speaking of fugu, that potentially poisonous blowfish the Japanese have considered a delicacy for 200 years, I dare you to try some. Actually, it's not all that risky, as long as someone who knows what he's doing is in charge. That would be Kaz Okochi at Kaz Sushi Bistro, who, until the end of March, is offering a unique, five-course fugu tasting menu for $150 per person (minimum two people), including hireshu (hot sake with fugu fin). It's a must for true Japanese food lovers. To make reservations, call two weeks in advance and mention the fugu tasting. (202-530-5500).

Pour the sangria! Jaleo, the hip, happenin' Spanish tapas restaurant on Seventh Street downtown is opening a second location in Bethesda at the end of March. The new, 6,500-square-foot Jaleo will open its doors on the corner of Woodmont Avenue and Elm Street. The new facility will be similar in style to the downtown original, with an open, spacious floor plan and expansive windows. But the Bethesda Jaleo is expected to offer outdoor seating, along with a menu featuring the tapas we know and love. Also, expect something new: platters of seared seafood called La Plancha. Think sardines, lobsters, cigalas (shrimp with heads) and fresh squid, all sold by the half-pound and pound. Go with a group and an appetite!.

Fine dining at Vidalia will get a boost from the almighty onion in April.

Want to dine with an artistic view? Then consider Pavilion Café, the new dining destination at the National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden. Its floor-to-ceiling picture windows offer panoramic views of the Sculpture Garden and the historic architecture of surrounding buildings. Grab a salad, sandwich or gourmet pizza, pair it with a beverage (wine and beer included) and enjoy.

The steak craze continues, these days out in techie Tysons Corner, Va. Following Morton's, Sam & Harry's and The Palm comes a second area Capital Grille and now the new Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, which bills itself as female- and couple-friendly. But forget about beef. Vino could be the main game at Fleming's, which boasts an amazing 100 wines by the glass and special two-ounce "wine tasting" samples available at one-third the price. Bottoms up!

Got any food scoop? Send it to stefanie@themagazinegroup.com.